rajudp said:are you heat the copper clad?
rajudp said:in ebay they are selling photo resist go for www.ebay.com and search for photoresist the price is little high but ok for small volume buyers. around 9.5US$ for A5 size 10 sheets. postage is free
rajudp said:you can use normal 60w lamp keep it about 1 meter above the unit. i will add only a small qty oh hypo to water but i think you can keep the solution for more than 1 day( i am not keeping it )
shiveni:
you asked for bulk qty. look your edaboard inbox . i have a pm for you.
shiveni said:rajudp said:you can use normal 60w lamp keep it about 1 meter above the unit. i will add only a small qty oh hypo to water but i think you can keep the solution for more than 1 day( i am not keeping it )
shiveni:
you asked for bulk qty. look your edaboard inbox . i have a pm for you.
Dear Raju,
i have tried lith film method as directed.
The initial result is - in negative the transparent area is ok. But the full dark area is not full dark but 70% dark.
I have compared the commercially produced film and mine. The dark area in my film is 30 to 40% less compared to the commercial one.
I used 60w bulb in 60cm and exposed to light rapidly 5 times as directed.
Then i put it in A&B developer for about 30seconds till i get the tracks coming in white color.
Then i put it to hypo solution for about 20 secs then rinsed in water.
Do you have any suggestion?.. how can we improve the black level to 100%.
Note :
1. If i level the film in A&B developer for more time to get full black the tracks are started to shrink.
Where can i get UV lith film. Here in erode no store is having this UV lith film.
Do you have any web site links about lith film usage. I have googled for the past two days about lith film. No fruitful informations so far.
piscrevathi said:Dear Barrybear ,
Oh no.........Photographic paper,very hot iron,toner transfer etc...................... I think u r far behind the lattest development in PCB fabrication. People clarify their doubts on dryfilm photoresist PCB fabrication( Mr rajudp doing a very smart work. I expect a lot from him. Thank You raju ). But you are in old stone age. Come on , Come and join with us and share your knowledge with us
rajudp said:while developing take the film and check to the light source( red zero watt bulb ) if you can see the bulb through dark region put in developer again. if it is not working try changing the exposure time. i am not using any timing for developer. if i think it is very fast i will add a little water to it to slow the process.
the UV film is called as DAYLIGHT negative film. the film normaly come in 22" x 30' roll. for small qty you can ask any local polymer stamp makers/ suppliers. they will sell in A4 size. i bought in the roll form madras ( they give the best rate) but i think if you dont have that much use better go for small qty. if you have a dark room then the lith film is good i think. even lith film is cheaper than daylight film.
rajudp said:please check any way to make daylight film negative from normal paper printout. what you used for positive.
for me the lith film given good results with paper printouts
shiveni said:rajudp said:please check any way to make daylight film negative from normal paper printout. what you used for positive.
for me the lith film given good results with paper printouts
The lith film is very sensitive and is able to manage with normal white sheet prints. Daylight film is UV sensitive hence suffecient light source is required.
There are two option we found.
1. Tracing sheet printout (almost all tracing sheets are usable. The sheet specific to offset printing gives excellent sharp prints through laser printer.)
2.The dirty and cheap way is using oil over normal paper printouts to make it transperent.
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