direct toner transfer laserprinter pcb

[Salvador12]

Hi, could some of you folks here suggest me the models of printers that could be used (with some modifications) to print directly on a cleaned copper pcb?
Personally I think this is the easiest way , since the transfer from a paper is more messy and I dont have that much luck with it , yet I want to try the printer version.

thanks.

 

[nandhu015]

As far as i know, you cant use laser printer directly to print on copper.

But you can use inkjet printer for this job.

Nandhu

 

[swapan]

I think any laser printer will do the job. I have tried using HP P1008 and RICOH SP111. Both the printer performed well. Of course, I take print on special toner transfer paper.

 

[Salvador12]

swapan , I was thinking of directly using the printer to print on the pcb while its rolling through the printer.

I have seen some videos were people do that then when it comes out the toner is not hard and dry as it would be on a paper but letting it sit for a while it hardens and becomes steady and then you can etch.atleast that what i have seen mayube it's fake i dont know.

 

[swapan]

I have not yet seen such process. I make pcb for my projects taking print of the artwork on paper and pasting it on copper cladded board.

 

[nandhu015]

I am sorry for not being updated..

Here is a link https://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser--1/?ALLSTEPS

Nandhu

 

[FvM]

swapan , I was thinking of directly using the printer to print on the pcb while its rolling through the printer.

I have seen some videos were people do that then when it comes out the toner is not hard and dry as it would be on a paper but letting it sit for a while it hardens and becomes steady and then you can etch.atleast that what i have seen mayube it's fake i dont know.

Obviously this is a demanding project and not easily to achieve.

First prerequisite is a printer mechanics with a straight paper path that can process rigid material.

Secondly there's the problem that the usual fusing unit isn't prepared to heat up thick material. You might consider to "bake" the substrate in an oven after printing.

Finally I fear that the pcb substrate edges will scratch and quickly damage the photosensitive drum.

 

[Salvador12]

the idea is such that the original fuser and pressure roller must be taken out alltogether. then the copper clad sides have to be sanded a bit so that they are smooth and i would add some tape on them , after that its basically just roll through.