arm controller in plcc package
Hi techie,
0.5mm pitch isn't as scary as you think. I've soldered a few 0.5mm pitch IC's with a standard soldering iron (18W, with a 1mm tip) and normal solder, from a spool. Just make sure you use extra flux, this will help stop those troublesome solder bridges. Also, just run your iron across a row of pins, with solder, and most will be nicely soldered. Any bridges can be removed using solder wick and a light touch. I was amazed at how neat it looks, just by using extra flux (not just the core in my solder).
UV etching is more realiable/accurate than transfer PCB's. Although, I have seen PCB's made using the latter that have 12mil tracks and no faults. I've never done this process before, but I believe you get some pre-treated PCB material (FR4?) and 'expose' it to UV light through a clear print of your design (copper tracks/pads are black, everythgin else is clear') on OHP sheet. Where the UV shines, the etch resist thats already on your board is deactivated, but where you tracks are on your design, the UV light is blocked (by your print) and so, the etch resist is left on. Its then developed, and etched. Because you are using light, it can be VERY accurate. But, its too expensive for me, I just get them from Olimex.
Given the option, I nearly always go for the smallest package available. It sounds mad, but I always like my designs to be small, and I hate drilling (if I'm making the PCB myself) so SMT takes priority. It also looks cool to have a tiny chip with a zillion pins
See for your self, if you've got some scrap boards with chips on them (PC parts like soundcards, ram, graphics, mobo's etc..) and try and desolder them. Then you could try soldering them back on, it's how I learned.
Probably won't help, but you've helped me before, take care mate.
BuriedCode.