Thanks for your reply, but I don’t know what you talking aboutAn electronics magazine described building a low-ohm test load for a car battery. It was made from several feet of steel band used to wrap around large heavy cargo. To conserve space it could be looped among nails sticking out of a wood board. Sanding painted spots might be necessary to expose bare steel. Air cooling is 'automatic'. Cabling must be robust as current reaches hundreds of Amperes from a healthy battery.
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Theater lights were/are smoothly dimmed and brightened by use of a large tank of salt water. It's wired in the current path. Electrodes are lowered into the solution to increase current, raised so a small portion conducts slightly to dim lights.
What details you need know?This requires some analysis I can't offer without details.
Can you show simple drawing explain this idea?, or resource where I can read about this?
No.What are
What details you need know?
Can you show simple drawing explain this idea?, or resource where I can read about this?
OkayNo.
Lookup the component specs and estimate the average current or power relative to the rated current or power at critical nodes.
If you don't have the analytic skills to read schematics and reverse engineer the design specs, what can I say about every repair you do?
Will this be ok for save the component from damage if there is till a fault?For safety tests I rather expect high voltage isolation test and so on.
the one has nothing to do with the other..Will this be ok for save the component from damage if there is till a fault?
Safety test sir, it’s just my expression for the kind of help I needWhich one are you focussing? Headline says safety test.
Forget about the safety testI guess you don´t know what electrical safety test means. Please google it. Find the according regulations for your country.
Wikipedia:
Right, thanks for understandingGaber meant he wants to "safely" test his repairs from burning out again due to some other primary fault not found yet. This can get expensive.
This concept look like the series lamp , as the lamp have internal resistance also become big when workICLs and PTC's are cheap but unless they are sized correctly, may not function or protect. But at least are unlikely to cause damage.
The same applies to a fuse.
I understand, thanksTungsten is a PTC with 12:1 range in resistance hot:cold but you may be using it over a smaller range in normal use.
Polyfuse PTC's are typically 3:1 range from trip:hold with a wide range of temperature slew rates in between. They are resettable lights like your lights but smaller and come in a wide range of values.
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