You can short out the 2S2P cluster which only drops the threshold voltage of the LED 2.7V zener voltage from Vth 35*5.4 = 189V to 34*5.4= 183.6V out of a worst case 230V +10% peak voltage of 350V.
So it is siginificant but no need to do anything except add an AWG 30 jumper and remove the good LEDs with a 125W gun if on Alum-clad board. When you add 50 cent tungsten bulb in series instead of running 100W it acts as a constant current limiter.
Let me regurgitate.
e.g. 230V@100W , Rh=529 Ω . We know cold tungsten is 10% of hot rated Rh, so Rc= 53 Ohms
Since I know each 2S2P LED string is 2.5~5Ω the total ESR plus fixed R=5.1 then,
Rtotal= 7.6 to 10.1 Ω * N strings. Now reducing N from 35 to 34 only reduces Rtotal by 3% !! which is not much. If Rtotal= 7.6Ω*34 =258Ω adding the 100W 230Vac bulb in series now makes it 258+53Ω which reduces the peak current by 53/311= 10.3% which not only adds considerable margin for overvoltage and easily makes up for 1 string of 7 to 10 Ω's.
However in terms of practical nature, this design is not very efficient with all the 5.1 Resistors.
A high efficiency tri-phosphor T8 x4ft tube will be 88 Lumens /watt and last 30k to 50k hours. with better phosphor than a white LED and you can run 1 to 4 tubes from one ballast with 25 to 30W per tube depending on cost/choice.
Get a proper commercial LED tube !!! Your DIY choice is worse. THis is not intended to be an efficient use of LED's just a voltage tolerant ( but not tolerant enough for your location if indeed it is designed for 230V !! let alone 250V.
This strip is for special applications where a tube may not be suitable..
It will be more efficent than a tungsten bulb but less than a good FL tube.
Unless the LED bulb or tube is > 88 LPW, a fluorescent tube is better and cheaper.