induction heater driver circuit
Be advised that the resonant capacitor will have to carry the 100A current you suggested you want in your coil. Industrial induction heaters use expensive water cooled caps, like those made by Celem. For a homebrew unit, you can parallel a number of polypropelyne caps and keep watch on how hot they get.
Your coil will heat with 100A, too. Again, industrial units use water cooled copper tubing. If you operate in tens to hundreds of KHz, you should get less heating from litz wire compared to covventional wire.
Be careful to keep the frequency at resonance if you use a parallel resoant tank output. This can draw huge currents if you arent careful. Series resonance avoids this.
I would suggest you use a magnetic iron or steel sample to heat, as the hysteresis losses in the piece will help you gain coupling effieciency, compared to just eddy current heating. This should translate into lower current requirements in your coil. But don't get red hot with it- once you pass the Curie temperature, the loading on your circuit will change drastically and could easily destroy it.
If your expertise is on the mechanical side, I know that some early induction heating units physically rotated a permanent magnet to get the changing magnetic field. If you don't need a lot of heat, you might get this to work, slowing the rotation (motor) way down to reduce heat.