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I have a 48V battery bank that powers my- ME1004 200A motor. The previous owner owner made a control circuit or PWM board that kept shorting then brok

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I have a 48V battery bank that powers my- ME1004 200-400A motor.

The previous owner owner made a control circuit or PWM board that kept shorting then broke/fried.
I am having trouble finding a quality pre built one. I don't think the little 35A trolling PWM would work

1000000560.jpg
PXL_20240315_212535192.jpg

Anyone want to help?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
I have a 48V battery bank that powers my- ME1004 200-400A motor.

The previous owner owner made a control circuit or PWM board that kept shorting then broke/fried.
I am having trouble finding a quality pre built one. I don't think the little 35A trolling PWM would work

View attachment 189548 View attachment 189549
Anyone want to help?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
LMGTFY…200 Amp DC motor controller
 
Descriptions say your motor produces upwards of 10 kW and can use a 300 A controller. When switching inductors off-and-on they have a tendency to produce spikes. Severe spikes can fry semiconductors.

Can you access individual posts of your batteries? If it were me I'd test how the motor operates when I hook up batteries in parallel vs series vs series-parallel. Brushed DC motors draw greater current at slow speeds. So start at (say) 12V at 300A (4 parallel).
24V at 250A (2 series strings of 2 parallel).
48V at 200A (4 series).

The proper switching scheme would need robust metal contacts.
This switching method will cause lurching both speeding up and slowing down. So instead of my idea, the variable speed control in post #2 appears human-friendly.
 
Thank you, yes I have four 12v deep cycle batteries in a series creating 48v. The controller finally fried after three years use. This is on an old sailboat to run the prop. I am upgrading the batteries to AGM bluetop optima D31m and hope to build something a little more robust and waterproof. I am researching how to configure the Kelly control system.
 

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The optimal configuration of batteries depends on the choice of prop and how it is disabled to prevent drag when sailing. A speed prop prefers power at a high RPM and a prop for low RPM with more pitch prefers a lower voltage. Low voltage with cells in parallel last longer since no BMS is needed but heavier cables are preferred to reduce cable losses but may have lower ESC efficiency which increases with higher voltage, lower current. A BMS charger for 48V would also increase lifespan when they start to diverge in balanced voltages. So there are a lot of unknown variables. But it looks like an excellent controller with many control features.
 
Because the old one kept shorting out and could have some water corrosion. I want to make something that is more durable and reliable.
--- Updated ---

Thank you for the responses, There is a folding brass prop on it that folds up when the motor stops. The motor is used for very short periods of time to get out to where the sails can be raised, 20-40 min.
 
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I have been in communication with a guy at thunderstruck motors that specializes in Sailboat conversations and they are putting together a package for me to include a sevcon millpak 4Q controller, contact, battery management, wire harness, throttle and charger.
 

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