Another possibility... I believe you need to shape the positive end of your battery shell, so it is identical to a real battery. My camera has a barrier, or standoff, or wall, molded around its + contact. This prevents reverse battery polarity. The positive end of a battery has a protruding button shape, which fits the cavity, therefore it touches the + contact.
The negative end of a battery is broad and flat, so it cannot touch the + contact. Looking at your photograph, both ends of your battery shell appear to be broad and flat.
Hi,
If the copper wires aren't soldered to the metal rings, you will go crazy with bad contacts, cold welding with pliers may help, but nothing beats a soldered connection.
If that isn't the problem, nor is the dummy battery not making contact with the camera terminals, nor the metal rings having some coating, you could get some 1 to 1.5mm rigid, solid copper wire (not coated with any enamel, it has to be bare copper), and try replacing the metal rings with a home-made spring/spiral of the copper, like the ones made of metal in battery powered equipment.
I have also tried 5v 12A computer power supply with this circuit. I couldn't run it and got "change batteries" text
In my circuit I have used jumper cables. Is it possible that the jumper cables couldn't flow high current that need for camera?
Actually I have gotten 3.15V with LM338 circuit. There is no problem about Voltage supply, probably current amount could not enough for running camera.Do you get your desired voltage (3.15V)?
At the IC output, install a large capacitor. 3300 or 4700 uF could be adequate. The capacitor helps to fill in momentary droops in the supply voltage.
Did you select the 330 & 470 resistor values by experimentation?
I guess the problem is dropout voltage related, it looks like you need at least 5.7 V going into the LM338 for it to provide 3.15V + 3A out...
So I don't know exactly what is duty of capacitor. I just predict that It will store current and then give enough amperage to camera for running. Am I right ?
I tried to place 6800uF capacitor between Vout and GND. I couldn't run it again, just opened my album and can looking to photos. :S
Now that you have succeeded in getting power to your camera, you need to try every trick in the book, so you can deliver several Amperes at a moment's notice.
I think about using power transistor as amplifier in order to get high current.
Link about high current voltage regulator with LM317: http://www.reuk.co.uk/wordpress/electric-circuit/lm317-adjustable-power-supply/
It's good to see your efforts paid off. The video shows the camera operates fine from your power supply.
:thumbsup:
A little belated thought:
I think the problem is that the dynamic internal resistance of your PSU is too much (for example because the wires).
My advice:
Place a 100uF tantalum capacitor as close as possible to the output terminals of your PSU, ie as close as possible to the camera's input terminals.
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