OK today we had some time so I removed the engine from the machine and measured it with a more sophisticated measuring device. Yesterday I measured it on the machine and using a cheap multimeter.
I have a motor on the table, it looks like new, there are three wires coming from the motor, black, red and blue.
- Between Black Red Rdc 21,6 Ohm, Rac 156,2 Ohm, L=127,4 mH
- Between Black Blue Rdc 21,6 Ohm, Rac 146,1 Ohm, L=110,7 mH
- Between Blue Red Rdc 42,8 Ohm, Rac 303,2 Ohm, L=238,0 mH
The motor rotor without a gearbox can be turned freely by hand.
I will plug it in without the control unit.
L1 230V on Red,
Null on Black
6uF real motor start capacitor between Red and Blue
in order for it to blow my fuses, I had a classic light bulb (60W) in series with the engine.. (Test before measurement)
result, the bulb lights up, the motor does not move and the roto shows the same resistance when the hand moves as when the motor is off.
If I calculate correctly, for 230V and 180W the ideal capacitor would be 10.8uF, 6uF is for a 100W motor.
The 60W bulb in series again reduces the power of the motor, but even so, I was expecting that when the rotor was turned, I would feel some resistance or the engine would spin
unfortunately, nothing happens
What am I doing stupidly or what is wrong?
for interest, this is the inside of the speed controller
I haven't looked into it much, though
-the 10uF 450V run capacitor was on the yellow and next to the cable cut. the original capacitor leaked into the space of the controller box
- capacitor C16 47uF/50V, near C11, was also damaged, is part of the RC source for the controller
- the main control element is Triac 12A in TO220 is OK
- U1 has the designation 358
and so I assume that the pulse from the tachometer is converted to voltage and I compare it with the voltage from the 20k potentiometer, which is used to set the speed and actually controls the opening angle of the triac