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China motor 230V 6IK 180RGN-CF

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Jadeit

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I have a 180W Chinese motor 6IK 180RGN-CF with the gearbox and this speed controller. The engine stopped turning
There was a cracked and leaking 10uF 450V capacitor in the control unit,. The speed control itself is with a triac.
The motor has three wires, black, red and blue, and two white wires from the back of the speed sensor..
The motor should start even with this connection.
When I measure the resistance between the wires from the motor, it seems that.
black is the common wire for both windings (I measure very little resistance with both blue and red wire)
The problem is, I shouldn't measure any resistance between blue and red, and I measure about 9 Ohms..Does this mean that there is an inter-turn short circuit between the windings and the motor is destroyed or am I mistaken and the whole thing is different?
I tried to start the motor with a 6uF 450V, because it only corresponds to a 100W motor, but there was no other motor capacitor at hand, but even if current passes through the motor, it does not move, and when you turn it by hand, the resistance is still the same.
Štítek motoru
M1.jpg


M2.jpg
 

You should be able to measure DC resistance between all three wires because winding 1 and winding 2 are in series, joined at "PEN". Rotatating the shaft should not change the resistance reading.

The capacitor is there to provide phase shift in the current between winding 1 and winding 2, it's this shift that creates the 'pull' that turns the motor around. Using a capacitor that is too low in value will cause wrong phase shift and it may not start or it could judder. The capacitor MUST be one rated for motor applications, do not be tempted to use an electrolytic type, they will not work and could easily explode.

Brian.
 

The motor should at least turn with 6 uF capacitor. Presume you are checking the motor with direct supply, bypassing the speed controller.
 

OK today we had some time so I removed the engine from the machine and measured it with a more sophisticated measuring device. Yesterday I measured it on the machine and using a cheap multimeter.
I have a motor on the table, it looks like new, there are three wires coming from the motor, black, red and blue.
- Between Black Red Rdc 21,6 Ohm, Rac 156,2 Ohm, L=127,4 mH
- Between Black Blue Rdc 21,6 Ohm, Rac 146,1 Ohm, L=110,7 mH
- Between Blue Red Rdc 42,8 Ohm, Rac 303,2 Ohm, L=238,0 mH

The motor rotor without a gearbox can be turned freely by hand.

I will plug it in without the control unit.
L1 230V on Red,
Null on Black
6uF real motor start capacitor between Red and Blue
in order for it to blow my fuses, I had a classic light bulb (60W) in series with the engine.. (Test before measurement)
result, the bulb lights up, the motor does not move and the roto shows the same resistance when the hand moves as when the motor is off.
If I calculate correctly, for 230V and 180W the ideal capacitor would be 10.8uF, 6uF is for a 100W motor.
The 60W bulb in series again reduces the power of the motor, but even so, I was expecting that when the rotor was turned, I would feel some resistance or the engine would spin
unfortunately, nothing happens
What am I doing stupidly or what is wrong?
for interest, this is the inside of the speed controller
I haven't looked into it much, though

-the 10uF 450V run capacitor was on the yellow and next to the cable cut. the original capacitor leaked into the space of the controller box
- capacitor C16 47uF/50V, near C11, was also damaged, is part of the RC source for the controller
- the main control element is Triac 12A in TO220 is OK
- U1 has the designation 358
and so I assume that the pulse from the tachometer is converted to voltage and I compare it with the voltage from the 20k potentiometer, which is used to set the speed and actually controls the opening angle of the triac


Untitled-1.jpg
 

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