homemade PCB using inkjet printer

[pashok84]

Hi,

I am using the toner transfer methods to make my PCB. I facing problem in transferring the image to copper clad plate. i used magazine paper for printing the board layout. when applied the heat image is not transferred or paper is not sticking to board. How many mins i need to iron the paper on plate.

Is ink jet print out can be used or only laser print out to be used.

Thanks and Regards,
Ashok Kumar P

 

[alexan_e]

I use an ink-jet printer put with positive photo sensitive PCB.
I print the pattern to a semitransparent paper and then put it over the PCB and under a UV lamp.

If you want to transfer the pattern on the PCB then you can only do it with a laser printer

 

[pashok84]

Thanks alexan_e

How does photosensitive PCB costs compare to copper clad PCB?

Using laser printer, can i use normal paper or need to use only photo paper.

Thanks and Regards,
Ashok Kumar P

 

[alexan_e]

The cost of an A4 sized PCB made by Bungard Germany costs about 10 Euro in my country, there are probably cheaper alternatives of lower quality.
I don't know about the prices in your country.

I have never used the laser printer method, I have always used a photosensitive board with a film

Alex

 

[tpetar]

Hi,

I am using the toner transfer methods to make my PCB. I facing problem in transferring the image to copper clad plate. i used magazine paper for printing the board layout. when applied the heat image is not transferred or paper is not sticking to board. How many mins i need to iron the paper on plate.

Is ink jet print out can be used or only laser print out to be used.

Thanks and Regards,
Ashok Kumar P

If you whant toner transfer, best result from my expirience for fast and good PCBs (TQFP32,TQFP44,...PCB for SMD cases,...or two tracks between DIP IC case pins) HP LaserJet 1200dpi with high density toner and Verbatim Glossy Photo Paper 150g. This Verbatim paper is in class of PnP Blue folie, and no need to remove paper with water, its removing like PnP folie. Also You need completely flat iron heater. With some practice you can achieve nice results. I have 99% of sucess of toner transfer on PCB dimesions 10cm x 10cm, for smaller PCBs its 100% transfer. PCB also must be cleaned and prepared before transfer process. On end wait to PCB cooldown before removing paper from PCB (about 10min). Temp of heating iron and moving iron over paper, just as amount of preassure with iron on paper is very immportant. Also very important thing is to know on which side you should do printing, photo paper have two sides, and only one is right for printing.

Also you can buy and try nice and easy PnP Blue Press & Peel Toner Transfer Folie from Techniks.

Alex described photo procedure with transparent foil and UV light, this is completely different from your request toner transfer.

Toner transfer procedure is based on toner - laser toner, inkjet cant be used for this because main conceptual differences of printing material and different technology of printing.

See this video like demo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhdpumUYnOg

 

[xaccto]

good post tpetar.
Your mention of requiring completely flat iron, I have some good tips for you.
1/ best iron is the old fashioned ones from the '50/60s - no steam holes, and very very robust and heavy ( though not
very heat insulated for handling - ouch) :evil:
2/ you know of suspension struts in a car ? they contain a very good hi carbon steel piston. Cut one out with a grinder and it makes
for a very good hard roller for pressing the magazine paper to the board.
So I now use the iron to heat the paper to board, and use the roller to press it on with the assistance of a small block of wood
to run the roller.

BTW, laser toner is a kind of plastic, thats why it works and using heat to transfer it to the copper, and why it resists your
acid or ferric cloride solution.
Ink jet toner is just - INK!

I would also prefer the UV /positive developer solution, in fact I made a light box for that purpose some time ago. But used
to be able to buy positive photoresist - PRP spray on - that works. Last time I tried it with new PRP it didn't work and was rubbish.
I put it down to some change to the product? and it wasn't cheap.

 

[mvs sarma]

@pashok84,
The quality of laser toner matters. Even the heat adjustment matters. I suppose magazines having thinner paper can be used. The paper can be false mounted on ordinary A4 sheet using a small 3m sticker.

i have some Pulserpro FX papers in A4 size. Very costly at Indian Rs140 each sheet and sold in 20 lot in one packet. it is locally sold from Mumbai, though made in USA. the paper is thick and like blotting paper with dextrin coating on one side

while printing , you have to define paper thickness, and toner darkness level. then while ironing, you use non auto old types, with max heat. try at say 30 sec of hard pressed ironing. with normal paper fibers continue to trouble you. the copper surface needs to be little rough by kitchen 3m scrubber, and clean from any oily or finger prints.
even with JK and DESMAT brand glossy photo papers , the problems are faced.
I came to know from a friend that Canon Photo glossy paper works well and the paper floats off after placing in hot water, post ironing.

 

[tpetar]

Printing direct on PCB with InkJet:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkHpjzOhzxA&feature=player_embedded



I'm satisfied with Verbatim photo paper and HP LaserJet toner. UV process is ok but require more time. With photo paper I can make very fast and good PCB.

Soon we will have low cost InkJet printers in shops which can print direct on surface.

 

[mvs sarma]

the post referred is old like 7 months. thus no purpose served.
You are right to use laser printer for one off pcb. cheap and time saving.
all the best