Motorcycle remote powered off bike 12 V. (9Volt remote)

I am trying to remove the 9 Volt battery and replace it with a voltage divider on a garage remote control so I can work the remote from my Honda Goldwing Push to talk switch. I first took the battery out made a voltage divider jumped the switch and the remote would not work I reinstalled the battery it would not open the door until I disconnected the battery. I then took the jumper off the switch removed the switch
ran two wires to the PTT on the bike and it worked. Next I reinstalled the voltage divider ( I get the required 9 Volts all the way to the circuit board). It will not actuate the door. Am I not getting enough amperage? I could only find a 1000K 1/4 watt and a 3300 K 1/4 watt at the local Radio Shack. SO I am actually getting 9.69 volts. I ran the Voltage divider off a switched accessory circuit on the bike so it won't drain the battery when not in use.
SO I have 9 Volts I have the PTT switch working but it won't work with the voltage divider...This is the extent of my Electronics knowledge. I am a pretty good electrician..

Need some help on this one!

Voltage divider is not a good option ..

With 1000ohm resistor between 12V and [9V] and 3300 between [9V] and 0V you actually have limited the current to the remote controller to ~8mA, and that’s not enough to drive the infrared diode ..
How about connecting 4 diodes in series, each will drop ~0.7V, so 4*0.7 ~2.8V,
Then, 12V -2.8V ~9.2V ..
I’m pretty sure your local store will have 1N4001 (or in general, 1A silicon diode) ..

Rgds,
IanP

Which one ( Part Number) do I use to get it to 9 Volts exactly? Or is 9.2 close enough? And do I connect the feed to the remote at the end of the series (no ground needed) ( I told you I didn't know anything about electronics).

Any 1N400x series (01/02 etc) or 1N540x (bigger) or equivelent general purpose diode.
One with a 1A current rating should be adequate.

And you need 4, not 1.

If you slder 4 in series, you can put them in sleeving (or wrap with insulating tape) hidden away somewhere.

9.2V is close enough ..
The voltage of "new" 9V battery is somewhere around 9.3V, and a remote controller will still work if the voltage drops well below 9V ..
So it doesn't need to be exactly 9.0V ..

4 diodes = see attached picture ..

Rgds,
IanP

Thanks for everyones help. I finally got home from my trip this Friday night. Stopped at radio shack and picked up (4) of the Diodes. All four in series pnly reduced the voltage to 11.2 V. So I checked the battery out put from the motorcycle battery and it was putting out 12.8 V. So each Diode was only reducing the Voltage by .4 Volts. So I'll go and get more diodes and try it again. I verified this by diconnecting one at a time and checking them individually.

A diode to drop voltage needs some current to flow through ..
I suspect that you've measured the voltage drop without any load, just voltmeter and as a voltmeter has (very)high input resistance it's not a "good" load ..
Try to connect a small resistor, say, 1kΩ as a dummy load and you'll see that each diode will drop ≈0.7V .. see attached cartoon ..

If the voltage of the car battery is ≈12.8V use 5 diodes (instead of 4) ..

Rgds,
IanP

Understood. What if later during the riding season the out put drops to 12 or even 11.8 volts? Will that drop the voltage too low for the remote to operate?

If the battery is in the right condition the voltage will slowly drop but it will still be able to deliver current ..
So, if the voltage dropped t, say, 11.8, the actual voltage on the remote controller will be ~8.3V, and that's OK, for as long as the buttery can deliver current ! ..
Below 11-something volts the battery is "dead" and you can't do much about that, can you?

Rgds,
IanP

hey dude y don't u simple use a 9v Regulator 7809
more simple & clean solution
No voltage fluctuation problem it will provide u stable 9volts
motocycle voltage go from 12 to 14.5v using diode is not a good solution man