Cheap and easy way of Making a PCB

[emavil]

Hi,

I'm looking for an alternative solution on how to transfer my layout to a PCB considering cost and time.

I've done photosensitized PCBs, very expensive for a single use. Are there other methods aside from using photosensitized?

I've heard that others are using this silk screen process. Can it compete with the photosensitized method in terms of accuracy?

 

[the_risk_master]

do you want hobby grade or professional grade method?

 

[CMOS]

Use Press-N-Peel Blue (PNP)
**broken link removed**
These produce very good results with trace width upto 6 mils.

 

[leonzam]

you can try the toner transfer method see:

**broken link removed**

and

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Added after 6 minutes:

there is a guy who uses glossy paper from magazines

check:

**broken link removed**

 

[docel]

Try this :
**broken link removed**

 

[emavil]

do you want hobby grade or professional grade method?

I will prefer using professional grade method, coz i'm planning to experiment on surface mount technologies

 

[emavil]

you can try the toner transfer method see:

h**p://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm

and

h**p://www.pacificsun.ca/~robert/pcb/pcb.htm

Added after 6 minutes:

there is a guy who uses glossy paper from magazines

check:

h**p://myweb.cableone.net/wheedal/pcb.htm

thanks a lot pal, the reading material was very good.

 

[tanveerriaz]

1) use a photocopy machine to get the layout on normal paper. Some machines will work better than others.

2) first clean the board with alcohool and steel wool, and finally with a paper towel. The surface at the end must be clean and (irregularly) rough.

3) Put the paper over the board. Soak it with alcohool (caution). Iron the layout on the board. Not too hot, not too cool. Use a dry iron (no steam).

4) DO NOT TRY TO PEEL. Instead, just "destroy" the paper While it's hot, soak it with water. Then add some NaOH (caution, it's caustic soda) - the paper will "melt". Now brush the paper away with a teeth brush.

5) Clean the board with vinegar (or a solution of acetic acid) to remove the NaOH.

6) cut the board to the final size.

7) Now etch the board before it dries. The author doesn't use ferrous sulfate, he uses:
- 5 parts hydrogen Peroxide H2O2 (130 Vol). (caution)
- 3 parts HCl. Muriatic Acid (caution)
- 2 parts water.
First add water, then the acid and last the H2O2. Mix. Caution.
He says it's faster. You can't store this solution.

8 ) After etching, remove the toner with steel wool. And brute force.

9) drill the board.

10) put solder paste all over the board.

11) Now with a soldering iron and 6 drops of solder, tin the whole board.

12) After that remove the solder paste with foam, alcohool and a multipurpose kitchen cleaning liquid (like Vanish tm I think).

13) After that if you don't like it shiny, use steel wool with the kitchen cleaner

14) You can now use the board or store it for later use.

 

[siongboon]

It is a cheap DIY solution.
Just some etchant and a container.
Simple.

**broken link removed**

 

[emavil]

1) use a photocopy machine to get the layout on normal paper. Some machines will work better than others.

thanks for that pal. I'm curious about the paper that you are using. Is it a normal bond paper or something like glossy (HP)?

One more thing, after laying down the paper with layout, do i have to treat the paper with alcohol before ironing?