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"In-circuit programmable" means you solder a new blank device into your project, and then program it (or reprogram it) through a small cable that you temporarily attach to your PC. You don't need a programmer unit.
The development board is only a learning tool, although it includes a download cable that you can use later for programming the device on your board. There's no reason to remove the CPLD from the development board.
You can still buy old DIP package devices (such as Lattice Semiconductor GALs), and programmer units (search Google for "GAL programmer"). However, I haven't seen any DIP package devices that contain more logic than about two or three GAL16V8s. If you want more logic, you need to go surface-mount.
You mentioned Verilog, so if you choose an old GAL device, be sure you can find Verilog synthesis tools that support your chosen device.