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Joining Two Devices. Is it possible?

SharpTeeth

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Hi everyone. New guy here. I am not an engineer but instead an artist who could use some help. I hope I am posting this in the right section.

I am wondering if it is possible to integrate these two devices below? I want to attach a Garage Hoist to a Grow Light Mover. I’m not sure if they are compatible or can do what I want them to do together. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The end result I want happen is when the Grow Light Mover stops on one end of the rail, the Hoist will then lower an object, keep it there for about 20 seconds then raise it back up before the Grow Light Rail starts to go back in the other direction. I thought the best way to do this was to buy a second Grow Light Mover and detach and use the "timer sensor” to connect to the Garage Hoist.

So in the end the completed finished unit which would ride along the light rail system will have--- a Grow light Mover with sensor in tact and the garage hoist with it’s own Grow light Sensor. when this whole unit moves to one end of the light rail there will be two separate magnetic stoppers. One for the Grow Light and the other for the Hoist.

Thanks in advance…...


DEVICE #1- “GROW LIGHT MOVER”

Designed to slowly move on a rail system from left to right. When the unit touches a magnet touch point it goes in the opposite direction. There is also a built in timer that can pause the device for up to 120 seconds.


____________________________________________

DEVICE #2 SMARTHOME - “MY LIFTER” - ELECTRIC GARAGE HOIST
https://www.smarterhome.com/product...WX1LN7fuMXLtPZK24wFCA93Rj8bNtXqxoCnHYQAvD_BwE

This is a Bluetooth device. There is an app that is used to program this device.
Here is the App— https://apps.apple.com/us/app/my-lifter/id945830110
Here is a video of how the app works_
 
Can the 'My lifter' accept your settings manually one time, then operate unattended indefinitely? It sounds like what you're looking for (even though the Apple store route is chance-y).

A straightforward method is to mount a light sensor near the end of the rail. When the light travels close, the sensor detects it and turns on the hoist. A simple 20-second timer circuit can be built around a 555 IC. Any further advice will require details about your hoist mechanism and how it's controlled.
 
Hi Brad. "The My Lifter" can only be programed through the app I am told by the company. I am hoping I can at least use it to tell the lifter how far to lower the cord and it will stay set that way.

The method you propose could possibly work I guess but that would assume that turning the power on to the MY Lift would automatically start the lowering function correct?

I am in touch with the MY LIFT company. Is there specific questions I can ask them that would help us determine what's possible?

Thank you
 
The method you propose could possibly work I guess but that would assume that turning the power on to the MY Lift would automatically start the lowering function correct?
Yes, thinking it through, my proposal is haphazard.

As for pressing onscreen buttons, unfortunately there's no easy way to use a smartphone unless you're a human being. 'My Lift' looks like a well-built system but I don't see how it can do the job you need.

An alternative system is an automatic garage-door opener (one which responds to interruption of a light-beam, or to a metallic/magnetic sensor). Or something along the lines of 'smart' appliance control.

Or radio control used in model cars/boats/airplanes. They use servos which respond to electrical signals, then move an arm or slide switch. This is mature technology which is precise and predictable.
 
Yes, thinking it through, my proposal is haphazard.

As for pressing onscreen buttons, unfortunately there's no easy way to use a smartphone unless you're a human being. 'My Lift' looks like a well-built system but I don't see how it can do the job you need.

An alternative system is an automatic garage-door opener (one which responds to interruption of a light-beam, or to a metallic/magnetic sensor). Or something along the lines of 'smart' appliance control.

Or radio control used in model cars/boats/airplanes. They use servos which respond to electrical signals, then move an arm or slide switch. This is mature technology which is precise and predictable.
The garage door openers were something I considered but I am concerned with the weight of the unit since it has to attach to the light rail and also carry a mannequin like figure. So the over all weight should be about 35 LBS. But I will look into those further too.

As for the servos ones I agree they would be great and probably the best I just have not been able to find one small but strong enough. I have searched and searched. If you know of one or a place to check that'd be helpful too. I'd also have to teach myself how to program a servo system.

This was the only one I was able to find and it looks like a toy--

I also though about RV winches.

And these as a control option:
https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-...fa-bdd6-8c4045807dbd&pd_rd_i=B0BCHB97Z5&psc=1
 
The servo can be small and weak... I used one on my R/C airplane to move a slide switch turning a propeller On-Off. A single channel radio control could be sufficient. A small servo pushes a switch on the R/C transmitter, and a small servo pushes a switch on your hoist.

A hoist could be the type for awnings, or blinds, sunscreens, solar installations. Power is multiplied via pulley systems (double power, halve speed). Likewise horizontal motion can be converted to vertical motion by idler pulleys, chain linkages, worm gears, etc.

There's a decision needed whether to let a cable descend, then wait 20 seconds, then ascend by reversing motion...
Or whether to have a hanging chain loop that travels one way only. It carries the load down one side, waits 20 sec, then resumes movement so the the load travels up other side.
 
The servo can be small and weak... I used one on my R/C airplane to move a slide switch turning a propeller On-Off. A single channel radio control could be sufficient. A small servo pushes a switch on the R/C transmitter, and a small servo pushes a switch on your hoist.

A hoist could be the type for awnings, or blinds, sunscreens, solar installations. Power is multiplied via pulley systems (double power, halve speed). Likewise horizontal motion can be converted to vertical motion by idler pulleys, chain linkages, worm gears, etc.

There's a decision needed whether to let a cable descend, then wait 20 seconds, then ascend by reversing motion...
Or whether to have a hanging chain loop that travels one way only. It carries the load down one side, waits 20 sec, then resumes movement so the the load travels up other side.
Hey Brad. I needs it to be a cable descending for it to look right. As much as I was hoping a garage door opener was going to be a good option it's just not the right fit. I'm researching the other ideas you posed. Whichever the option it needs to be something in which the motor turns one way (to descend) and then when triggered again reverses (to raise up). That's my biggest challenge.
 
More ideas:
* boat winch or trailer winch (not too different from RV winches). Reversible direction. Slow speed. You might find one to hang from a hook mounted in a ceiling joist.

* Could a suitable winch be made for carpentry? Painting... roofing ... logging... sporting...

* Power tools... An electric drill comes to mind. A spool put in the chuck. This would probably go too fast to be manageable.

Generally a DC motor runs in one direction at one supply polarity. Then reverse polarity to run it in the other direction. To do this electronically will require you to build a custom circuit. Probably an H-bridge and timer IC's and end-of-travel switches.
 
Hi Brad. Thanks for the brainstorm once again. I've taken you leads and continued to search. Not much out there light weight department. Looking for a winch/hoist under 10 lbs.

I'm wondering if this one will be strong enough and able to be controlled in the way I need it to be.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-re...electric-winch-with-remote-control/8699165099

or this one:

Since this will be running on and off all day I would need it run on electricity. What would it take to convert this?

Would you be able to recommend someone that could build the custom circuit I need?

I'm still wondering if the sensor system in this light rail is my key..... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KHX8QZP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
 
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The R/C sized winches measure small, but R/C vehicles can get large and bulky, so the R/C winch made for them could be at the margin of doing the job.

Also look at winches sized for model cranes.
Also fishing reels built for 10 lb. hauls.

Your photos reveal the Gro-Light mechanism shows promise as a winch. The motorized wheel looks like you can mount it in a direction where it winds and unwinds a chain vertically. Videos at Amazon show the device traveling a few inches per second.

1) As your existing Gro-Light Mover reaches the end of the rack, make it hit a rod or hinge or dowel. Maybe you attach a magnet at the end. Maybe you devise a button-pusher or switch-slider.
2) The rod knocks a second Mover (mounted securely so it remains stationary). It turns on via switch or magnetic sensor.
3) The stationary mover drops a chain (with or without pulley system).
4) Set its timer to stay idle for 20 seconds before raising the load. Somehow set a switch to shut if off when the chain is totally wrapped up.
5) The existing Mover has its own 120-second timer telling it when to start moving again.

In the background is the possibility you must rework the motor in the fastened-down Mover. It must turn On when a magnet stopper makes it shut Off. Count it as another hurdle an artist must conquer in order to create something that captivates viewers.
 
The R/C sized winches measure small, but R/C vehicles can get large and bulky, so the R/C winch made for them could be at the margin of doing the job.

Also look at winches sized for model cranes.
Also fishing reels built for 10 lb. hauls.

Your photos reveal the Gro-Light mechanism shows promise as a winch. The motorized wheel looks like you can mount it in a direction where it winds and unwinds a chain vertically. Videos at Amazon show the device traveling a few inches per second.

1) As your existing Gro-Light Mover reaches the end of the rack, make it hit a rod or hinge or dowel. Maybe you attach a magnet at the end. Maybe you devise a button-pusher or switch-slider.
2) The rod knocks a second Mover (mounted securely so it remains stationary). It turns on via switch or magnetic sensor.
3) The stationary mover drops a chain (with or without pulley system).
4) Set its timer to stay idle for 20 seconds before raising the load. Somehow set a switch to shut if off when the chain is totally wrapped up.
5) The existing Mover has its own 120-second timer telling it when to start moving again.

In the background is the possibility you must rework the motor in the fastened-down Mover. It must turn On when a magnet stopper makes it shut Off. Count it as another hurdle an artist must conquer in order to create something that captivates viewers.
These are great ideas and I'm researching further. Thank you. Will check back with updates.
 
These are great ideas and I'm researching further. Thank you. Will check back with updates.
YES Brad. This certainly could be the answer. I just thought about the same idea and then read your post. But you explained it better.

Both Movers units need to remain attached to each other and move along the rail because the object will always remain hooked to it. But yes the biggest challenge is reworking the Winch Mover's circuit board to understand that when it touches the magnet stopper it turns on and lowers and THEN the timer begins. Once the timer runs out it raises again and then turns off until it comes back to the magnet again.

Problem #2 will be how to tell the winch how much to lower and raise the cable? The object will be transported at one height and then when it gets to the spot and begins to lower it will need to go about twice as low.*** ???

Any ideas on how to do that? Is there a way to modify the circuit board? Is that something I would be able to pay you or someone you know to do?

This is the side view of how it would look running along the rail. The bottom unit would be turned into the winch (inside the red casing is the timer/magnetic sensor detector.

Here is the item as a whole again.
 
Generally you make a DC motor spin in the other direction by switching polarity of its power leads. This may be useful toward getting past a hurdle.

From your posts it's easy to see you are able to visualize interactions between the various devices. I think you can afford to have confidence in your own ingenuity to make headway. Of course the circuit board is a mystery and needs more skill than I possess to rework it.

One method I didn't see mentioned is an idler wheel (or pulley) at the edge of the rack. A second Grow-Light-Mover makes a further trip after the primary Mover hits the magnetic stopper. Attach a rope (cable, chain) to the second Mover. It travels toward the idler wheel, automatically dropping the mannequin. Wait 20 seconds, then it travels back toward the first Mover. It halts (by some method yet to be decided). Then it waits for the first Mover to knock it again in a few minutes.
idler wheel at edge of rack.png


In fact, if you can add 10 feet of distance with a chain (or rope or cable) to the first Mover, you need not add the second Mover.
 
Generally you make a DC motor spin in the other direction by switching polarity of its power leads. This may be useful toward getting past a hurdle.

From your posts it's easy to see you are able to visualize interactions between the various devices. I think you can afford to have confidence in your own ingenuity to make headway. Of course the circuit board is a mystery and needs more skill than I possess to rework it.

One method I didn't see mentioned is an idler wheel (or pulley) at the edge of the rack. A second Grow-Light-Mover makes a further trip after the primary Mover hits the magnetic stopper. Attach a rope (cable, chain) to the second Mover. It travels toward the idler wheel, automatically dropping the mannequin. Wait 20 seconds, then it travels back toward the first Mover. It halts (by some method yet to be decided). Then it waits for the first Mover to knock it again in a few minutes.
View attachment 197319

In fact, if you can add 10 feet of distance with a chain (or rope or cable) to the first Mover, you need not add the second Mover.



Brad I had to read your idea of using a pulley about a dozen times and visualize but it finally sunk in. I think it's a great idea and one that removes additional circuity from the equation. SEE MY DIAGRAM BELOW.

Going off the premise of using one mover to do this, I thought about using a trolley wheel that would ride at a set distance from the mover using a rod/bracket. This would also serve as a "moving pulley wheel".

This would work great for when the mover pulled the object up and away into the other room BUT when it brought it back and the mover tried to come closer to the trolley wheel/pulley the rod would be a problem because it would block the mover from being able to move the rest of the distance it needed to lower the object.

Unless there was some sort of loop and locking-pin type of thing attached to the trolley wheel body that the rod could go through until mover hit its magnet stopper? I wouldn't really know what that could be just yet but just a thought.

Let me know what you think.
It's crazy that you've gotten me this far. I'm grateful but don't go on vacation just yet please.

IMG_1019.jpg
IMG_1021.JPG
 
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Yes, this is shaping up. You're filling in the areas that are vacant The screw eye attached to a trolley seems like it shall be a major player.

You are correct that the travel distance could be at a point where you need a rigid pole (rod, pipe, tube) to extend the reach of the Mover. This is a case where only you can gauge the size of the installation, and the weights involved, and the traction of the Mover.
 
Any thoughts on the problem of the rod not allowing the mover to get close enough to the trolley to lower the object when on that end of the track?

It needs to temporarily release or have some sort of thread the needle type of action. Ever see something like that in existence? It would have to lock back into place as the mover heads back in the opposite direction to be able to pull the object back up. Something sort of like these.....



Screenshot 2025-02-14 at 12.36.31 AM.png.Screenshot 2025-02-14 at 12.29.32 AM.pngScreenshot 2025-02-14 at 12.42.21 AM.pngScreenshot 2025-02-14 at 12.45.46 AM.pngScreenshot 2025-02-14 at 12.50.42 AM.png
 
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Right, I wasn't certain about the travel length that would be occupied by the Mover. I pictured telescoping tubes (old-fashioned tv rabbit ears), sliding bars... adding flexibility to the motion and time delay as desired.

Youtube has many videos portraying mechanical devices animated.
Hinges, gears, cams, cogs... Might provide ideas. Example:

youtube.com/watch?v=MFmFAgohkIM
 
Right, I wasn't certain about the travel length that would be occupied by the Mover. I pictured telescoping tubes (old-fashioned tv rabbit ears), sliding bars... adding flexibility to the motion and time delay as desired.

Youtube has many videos portraying mechanical devices animated.
Hinges, gears, cams, cogs... Might provide ideas. Example:

youtube.com/watch?v=MFmFAgohkIM
Working on a prototype.... Fingers crossed.
 

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