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alvarorahul, you may have overlooked that one is AC and the other is DC.
I wouldn't try it without first opening up the camera and studying its power input circuitry to see if would tolerate DC. That may be a difficult chore, so I would probably go buy the proper power unit.
"Wall warts" fall into 2 categories; AC and DC. The AC types are simply transformers. The device under power provides its own rectifier, and possibly a filter. The DC types can have either - or + polarity. They have built-in Rectifiers, and sometimes have built in filters.
The following situations are based on the assumption that the new wall wart has the same voltage rating as the original.
Situation 1: The camera is designed for use with an AC wall wart:
. If the new (DC) wall wart has the wrong polarity, it won't work, but won't harm the camera
. If the new (DC) wall wart has the correct polarity it will work if its current rating is equal to or greater than the original wall wart.
Situation 2: The device is designed for use with a DC wall wart:
. If the new wall wart has the wrong polarity, you will fry your camera.
. If the new wall wart has the correct polarity and its current rating is equal to or greater than the original wall wart, then it will work.
. If the original wall wart is a DC type, and has a filter, as well as a rectifier, the new wall wart may produce eratic results, if it has no filter or its filtering is not as good as the original, you may get erratic results from the camera, but no damage will be done.