[SOLVED] why won't my LED strip power up on batteries? (video showing problem included)

I made a video that describes my problem:


Wondering why it gets stuck on GREEN only and won't let me cycle through other colors when on batteries?

Take a multimeter and check the polarity of the power coming from the wall power supply ..
Then compare it with the battery cable ..
You have only two option: positive-central or negative-central ..
It’s possible that the battery cable is wired the opposite way (reversed polarity) ..

IanP
:wink:

BTW. Are the betteries OK, 8x1.5=12 ???

The label on the controller reads "6A max". You may need bigger batteries to supply enough current. And stop plugging things in backwards to see what happens; it leads to catastrophic permanent equipment failure; that's what happens.

IanP said:

Take a multimeter and check the polarity of the power

Click to expand...

I don't have a multimeter at the moment but do these images help determining the polarity or do I still need a multimeter ?

This is a "K" tip, with the - symbol on the back of the white plastic and the + symbol on the side where the metal tip protrudes
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what it reads on the adapter plug (these are also called transformers, correct?)
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What does "6A Max" mean?

btw, someone on youtube commented saying to try an L or M plug here is what he said:
Some devices require "tip to negative" which might be why it partially works when flipped. If you look at a Radio Shack universal power adapter it shows the symbols to follow based on the device.
Or try a "L" or "M" plug, I've seen devices act weird with really close tip sizes that fit the device.

Hi,

Those batteries seems to be ordinary ones with about 150mA capacity. You need something like Duracell or 2.7Ah rechargeable batteries. Also please check the IR snesor and Remote are compatible to each other.

Thank you

PS: That is the problem with the current capacity of battery and Can you explain those RED, BLACK and BLUE wires of the power. RED and BLACK is understood what is BLUE for and what should be there for the fouth pin. My Guess the fourth pin should be be again Black.

prmurthy said:

Hi,
Those batteries seems to be ordinary ones with about 150mA capacity. You need something like Duracell or 2.7Ah rechargeable batteries.

Click to expand...

Are you sure that the battery capacity has to do with powering up the device properly? I was under the impression that the capacity of the battery simply determines how LONG the battery can last, not how much power it pumps out at any given time.

prmurthy said:

Hi,
Also please check the IR snesor and Remote are compatible to each other.

Click to expand...

Yes, they are compatible with each other and came with each other when I bought this package. They work fine when the controller is plugged into the wall, just not when its powered up with batteries.

prmurthy said:

Can you explain those RED, BLACK and BLUE wires of the power. RED and BLACK is understood what is BLUE for and what should be there for the fouth pin. My Guess the fourth pin should be be again Black.

Click to expand...

My guess is the four wires are telling which LEDs to turn on. There are three LEDs placed into groups throughout the strip, Red, Green, and Blue. My guess is that the Red, Green, and Blue wires are hooked up to each Red, Green, and Blue LEDs, and the black one is transferring some kind of other information, such as information regarding light intensity, flicker rate, etc. If that's not it than I don't know.

I still think that you have problem with the polarity of the 1pin ..
Your picture is inconclusive and you have to make sure that the barrel is negative and the "tip" is positive ..
To check it out, if you don’t have a multimeter, use an LED with a resistor in series ..
If the LED anode is connected to pin ..bla..bla..bla.. then the tip is positive ..

IanP
:wink:

Well I have a bunch of single LEDs... but uhhhh..... I don't know if they have a resistor? I might just buy a multimeter... they are only like 9 bucks right? I think I saw one at Bimart.

First off, connect the 4 position correctly to your LED strip.
Second, disconnect from your batteries by removing the snap on two prong tab to the battery holder. Its the piece that is on the other end of the wire from where you soldered to. That should be removable. What you want to do is remove it so that you can temporarily reconnect it backwards, but just momentarily, to see if it lights up. If it does, you've soldered the wires backwards.

---------- Post added at 05:06 ---------- Previous post was at 04:57 ----------

your batteries may also be the problem, you have (8batteries *1.5V) = 12V but at 150mA you will only get (12V*.15A)=1.8W from those batteries. the output of your ac to dc adapter will give you up to 12v at 1000mA(1A) = 12W. You IR controller can source up to 12V at 6A so 72W. But the most you can get is the 12W from your wall adapter. So I doubt the lights are pulling 72W, or even 12W, but 1.8W is probably not enough to power it.

vlor said:

Are you sure that the battery capacity has to do with powering up the device properly? I was under the impression that the capacity of the battery simply determines how LONG the battery can last, not how much power it pumps out at any given time.

Click to expand...

Just replace you existing batteries to a 12V 3.6Ah it can be 7Ah as well battery and this should be working perfectly and may last for about 1 hour or so.

Thank you

WOW. *facepalm* You're right. I soldered the wires on backwards! I just took a rubber band and tied the cap on backwards. It doesn't snap on nicely anymore but it works. Thanks.