classic circuit for alarm

No. 1:

By Rev. Thomas Scarborough

Cape Town

E-mail scarboro@iafrica.com

Figure 1 represents a cheap and simple Gate Alarm, that is intended to run off a small universal AC-DC power supply.

IC1a is a fast oscillator, and IC1b a slow oscillator, which are combined through IC1c to emit a high pip-pip-pip warning sound when a gate (or window, etc.) is opened. The circuit is intended not so much to sound like a siren or warning device, but rather to give the impression: "You have been noticed." R1 and D1 may be omitted, and the value of R2 perhaps reduced, to make the Gate Alarm sound more like a warning device. VR1 adjusts the frequency of the sound emitted.

IC1d is a timer which causes the Gate Alarm to emit some 20 to 30 further pips after the gate has been closed again, before it falls silent, as if to say: "I'm more clever than a simple on-off device." Piezo disk S1 may be replaced with a LED if desired, the LED being wired in series with a 1K resistor.

Figure 2 shows how an ordinary reed switch may be converted to close (a "normally closed" switch) when the gate is opened. A continuity tester makes the work easy. Note that many reed switches are delicate, and therefore wires which are soldered to the reed switch should not be flexed at all near the switch. Other types of switches, such as microswitches, may also be used.

No.2
5 Zone Alarm System

This is a complete alarm system with 5 independent zones suitable for a small office or home environment. It uses just 3 CMOS IC's and features a timed entry / exit zone, 4 immediate zones and a panic button. There are indicators for each zone a "system armed" indicator. The schematic is as follows:

Each zone uses a normally closed contact. These can be micro switches or standard alarm contacts (usually reed switches). Zone 1 is a timed zone which must be used as the entry and exit point of the building. Zones 2 - 5 are immediate zones, which will trigger the alarm with no delay. Some RF immunity is provided for long wiring runs by the input capacitors, C1-C5. C7 and R14 also form a transient suppresser. The key switch acts as the Set/Unset and Reset switch. For good security this should be the metal type with a key. At switch on, C6 will charge via R11, this acts as the exit delay and is set to around 30 seconds. This can be altered by varying either C6 or R11. Once the timing period has elapsed, LED6 will light, meaning the system is armed. LED6 may be mounted externally (at the bell box for example) and provides visual indication that the system has set. Once set any contact that opens will trigger the alarm, including Zone 1. To prevent triggering the alarm on entry to the building, the concealed re-entry switch must be operated. This will discharge C6 and start the entry timer. The re-entry switch could be a concealed reed switch, located anywhere in a door frame, but invisible to the eye. The panic switch, when pressed, will trigger the alarm when set. Relay contacts RLA1 provide the latch, RLA2 operate the siren or buzzer.

No.3
Miniature Loop Alarm

By Tomaz Lazar - Ljubljana, Slovenia

A few months ago, I decided to build a compact, yet effective alarm. My demands were:- simple construction, reliable operation, very small power consumption, and, most of all, small size. I started with CMOS logic gates, but was soon forced to abandon the concept after a few unsuccessful (and far too complicated) attempts. Then I suddenly realized that a simple transistor switch might do the job and I was right.

As you can clearly see from the schematics, the circuit is utterly primitive and consists of two identical transistor switches. Each has its own alarm LED and they're coupled to a neat 82dB buzzer. The two 1N4148 diodes are used to prevent a signal from one sensor from triggering both LEDs. The sensors used are either wire loops or normally closed reed switches or even a combination of both. You could, for example, tie a wire loop to your suitcase and place a reed switch to the door of your hotel room.

Since this little alarm is intended to be kept in arms reach at all times, there aren't any provisions for automatic shutdown after a certain period of time. The buzzer will sound until you turn the whole circuit off or connect the wire loop back to the jumpers. The same goes for the two LEDs, each indicating its own zone.

Construction is not critical and there aren't any traps for the novice. The two 100n capacitors aren't really necessary, I just included them to make sure that there is no noise interference coming from the long wire loops. For transistors, you can use any NPN general-purpose audio amplifiers/switches (BC 107/108/109, BC 237/238, 2N2222, 2N3904...). Assemble the circuit on perf board. Together with the buzzer and a 9V battery, it should easily fit in a pocket-sized plastic box smaller than a pack of cigarettes. A fresh battery should suffice for weeks of continuous operation.

No.4
This circuit features automatic Exit and Entry delays and a timed Bell Cut-off. It has provision for both normally-closed and normally-open contacts, and a 24-hour Personal Attack/Tamper zone. It is connected permanently to the 12-volt supply and its operation is "enabled" by opening SW1. By using the expansion modules, you can add as many zones as you require; some or all of which may be the inertia (shock) sensor type. All the green LEDs should be lighting before you open SW1. You then have up to about a minute to leave the building. As you do so, the Buzzer will sound. It should stop sounding when you shut the door behind you. This indicates that the Exit/Entry loop has been successfully restored within the time allowed. When you re-enter the building you have up to about a minute to move SW1 to the off position. If SW1 is not switched off in time, the relay will energise and sound the main bell. It will ring for up to about 40 minutes. But it can be turned off at any time by SW1. The "Instant" zone has no Entry Delay. If you don't want to use N/O switches, leave out R8, C8 and Q2; and fit a link between Led 3 and C7. The 24 Hour PA/Tamper protection is provided by the SCR/Thyristor. If any of the switches in the N/C loop is opened, R11 will trigger the SCR and the bell will ring. In this case the bell has no time limit. Once the loop is closed again, the SCR may be reset by pressing SW2 and temporarily interrupting the current flow. The basic circuit will be satisfactory in many situations. However, it's much easier to find a fault when the alarm is divided into zones and the control panel can remember which zone has caused the activation. The expansion modules are designed to do this. Although they will work with the existing instant zone, they are intended to replace it. When a zone is activated, its red LED will light and remain lit until the reset button is pressed. All the modules can share a single reset button. The Stripboard layout of the prototype is available.

Water Activated Alarm

Submitted by Tom Email: XxTomxx14@aol.com

The circuit uses a 555 timer wired as an astable oscillator and powered by the emitter current of the BC109C. Under dry conditions, the transistor will have no bias current and be fully off. However as the probes get wet the transistor will conduct and sounding the alarm.

An On/Off switch is provided and remember to use a non-reactive metal for the probe contacts. Gold or silver plated contacts from an old relay may be used, however a cheap alternative is to wire alternate copper strips from a piece of veroboard. These will eventually oxidize over but as very little current is flowing in the base circuit, the higher impedance caused by oxidization is not important. No base resistor is necessary as the transistor is in emitter follower, current limit being the impedance at the emitter (the oscillator circuit).

No.6
Designed by Tom.

This novel buzzer circuit uses a relay in series with a small audio transformer and speaker. When the switch is pressed, the relay will operate via the transformer primary and closed relay contact. As soon as the relay operates the normally closed contact will open, removing power from the relay, the contacts close and the sequence repeats, all very quickly...so fast that the pulse of current causes fluctuations in the transformer primary, and hence secondary. The speakers tone is thus proportional to relay operating frequency. The capacitor C can be used to "tune" the note. The nominal value is 0.001uF, increasing capacitance lowers the buzzers tone.

No.7
by Rev. Thomas Scarborough - scarboro@iafrica.com

This simple circuit is sure to have the police beating a path to your door - however, it has the added advantage of alerting you to their presence even before their footsteps fall on the doormat.

The circuit transmits on Medium Wave (this is the small problem with the police). IC1a, together with a sensor (try a 20cm x 20cm sheet of tin foil) oscillates at just over 1MHz. This is modulated by an audio frequency (a continuous beep) produced by IC1b. When a hand or a foot approaches the sensor, the frequency of the transmitter (IC1a) drops appreciably.

Suppose now that the circuit transmits at 1MHz. Suppose also that your radio is tuned to a frequency just below this. The 1MHz transmission will therefore not be heard by the radio. But bring a hand or a foot near to the sensor, and the transmitter's frequency will drop, and a beep will be heard from the radio.

Attach the antenna to a multiplug adapter that is plugged into the mains, and you will find that the Medium Wave transmission radiates from every wire in your house. Now place a suitably tuned Medium Wave radio near some wires or a plug point in your house, and an early-warning system is set up.

Instead of using the sheet of tin foil as the sensor, you could use a doorknob, or burglar bars. Or you could use a pushbutton and series resistor (wired in series with the 33K resistor - the pushbutton would short it out) to decrease the frequency of IC1a, so activating the system by means of a pushbutton switch. In this case, the radio would be tuned to a frequency just below that of the transmitter.

No.8
Circuit : Ron J
Email:ronj@gofree.indigo.ie

Description:
This is an enhanced 5 digit keypad which may be used with the Modular Alarm System.
Notes:
This switch will suit the Modular Burglar Alarm circuit. However, it also has other applications. The Keypad must be the kind with a common terminal and a separate connection for each key. On a 12-key pad, look for 13 terminals. The matrix type with 7 terminals will NOT do. Choose the five keys you want as your code, and connect them to 'A, B, C, D & E'. Wire the common to R1 and all the remaining keys to 'F'. Because your choice can include the non-numeric symbols, almost 100 000 different codes are available. The Alarm is set using the first four of your five chosen keys. When 'A, B, C & D' are pressed in the right order and within the time set by C1 and R2 (about 10 seconds), current through R11 switches Q6 on. The relay energizes, and then holds itself on by providing base current for Q6 through R12. The 12-volt output switches from the "off " to the "set " terminal, and the LED lights. To switch the Alarm off again it is necessary to press A, B, C, D & E in the right order. The IC is a quad 2-input AND gate, a Cmos 4081. These gates only produce a high output when both inputs are high. Pressing 'A' takes pin 1 high for a period of time set by C1 and R2. This 'enables' gate 1, so that when 'B' is pressed, the output at pin 3 will go high. This output does two jobs. It locks itself high using R3 and it enables gate 2 by taking pin 5 high. The remaining gates operate in the same way, each locking itself on through a resistor and enabling its successor. If the correct code is entered within the time allowed, pin 10 will switch Q5 on and so connect the base of Q6 to ground. This causes Q6 to switch off and the relay to drop out. Any keys not wired to 'A, B, C, D or E ' are connected to the base of Q4 by R9. Whenever one of these 'wrong' keys is pressed, Q4 takes pin 1 low. This removes the 'enable' from gate 1, and the code entry process fails. If C, D or E is pressed out of sequence, Q1, Q2 or Q3 will also take pin 1 low, with the same result. You can change the code by altering the keypad connections. If you make a mistake entering the code, just start again. If you need a more secure code you can use a bigger keypad with more 'wrong' keys wired to 'F'. A 16-key pad gives over half a million different codes. All components are shown lying flat on the board; but some are actually mounted upright. The links are bare copper wires on the component side. Two of the links must be fitted before the IC.

No8-3/4
Circuit : Ron J
Email:ronj@gofree.indigo.ie

Description:
This is an enhanced 5 digit keypad which may be used with the Modular Alarm System.

Notes:
The Keypad must be the kind with a common terminal and a separate connection for each key. On a 12-key pad, look for 13 terminals. The matrix type with 7 terminals will NOT do. The Alarm is set by pressing a single key. Choose the key you want to use and wire it to 'E'. Choose the four keys you want to use to switch the alarm off, and connect them to 'A B C & D'. Your code can include the non-numeric symbols. With a 12-key pad, over 10 000 different codes are available. Wire the common to R1 and all the remaining keys to 'F'. When 'E' is pressed, current through D2 and R9 switches Q5 on. The relay energises, and then holds itself on by providing base current for Q5 through R10. The 12-volt output is switched from the "off " to the "set " terminal, and the LED lights. To switch the Alarm off again it is necessary to press A, B, C & D in the right order. The IC is a quad 2-input AND gate, a Cmos 4081. These gates only produce a high output when both inputs are high. Pin 1 is held high by R5. This 'enables' gate 1, so that when 'A' is pressed, the output at pin 3 will go high. This output does two jobs. It locks itself high using R2 and it enables gate 2 by taking pin 5 high. The remaining gates operate in the same way, each locking itself on through a resistor and enabling its successor. If the correct code is entered, pin 10 will switch Q4 on and so connect the base of Q5 to ground. This causes Q5 to switch off and the relay to drop out. Any keys not wired to 'A B C D or E' are connected to the base of Q3 by R7. Whenever one of these 'wrong' keys is pressed, Q3 takes pin 1 low. This removes the 'enable' from gate 1,

No.9
Circuit : Ron J
Email: ronj@gofree.indigo.ie


Notes:
Any number of normally open switches may be used. Fit the mercury switches so that they close when the steering is moved or when the bike is lifted off its side-stand or pushed forward off its centre-stand. Use micro-switches to protect removable panels and the lids of panniers etc. While at least one switch remains closed, the siren will sound. About two minutes after the switches have been opened again, the alarm will reset. How long it takes to switch off depends on the characteristics of the actual components used. But, up to a point, you can adjust the time to suit your requirements by changing the value of C1.

The circuit board and switches must be protected from the elements. Dampness or condensation will cause malfunction. Without its terminal blocks, the board is small. Ideally, you should try to find a siren with enough spare space inside to accommodate it. Fit a 1-amp in-line fuse close to the power source. This protects the wiring. Instead of using a key-switch you can use a hidden switch; or you could use the normally closed contacts of a small relay. Wire the relay coil so that it is energized while the ignition is on. Then every time you turn the ignition off, the alarm will set itself.

When it's not sounding, the circuit uses virtually no current. This should make it useful in other circumstances. For example, powered by dry batteries and with the relay and siren voltages to suit, it could be fitted inside a computer or anything else that's in danger of being picked up and carried away. The low standby current and automatic reset means that for this sort of application an external on/off switch may not be necessary.

No.10
Circuit : Andy Collinson
Email: anc@mitedu.freeserve.co.uk

Description:
A circuit that offers visual indication of fluid level in a vessel, with a switchable audible alarm. Example uses would be to monitor the level of water in a bath or cold storage tank.

The conductance of fluids:
Conductance is the reciprocal of resistance. The conductance of fluids vary with temperature, volume and separation distance of the measurement probes. Tap water has a conductance of about 50 uS / cm measured at 25 ?C. This is 20k/cm at 25 ?C. See this site for more details about the conductance of fluids.

Notes:
This circuit will trigger with any fluid with a resistance under 900K between the maximum separation distance of the probes. Let me explain further. The circuit uses a 4050B CMOS hex buffer working on a 5 volt supply. All gates are biased off by the 10M resistors connected between ground and buffer input. The "common" probe the topmost probe above probe 1 in the diagram above is connected to the positive 5 volt supply. If probe 1 is spaced 1 cm away from the common probe and tap water at 25 ?C is detected between the probes (a resistance of 20k) then the top gate is activated and the LED 1 will light. Similarly if probe 2 at 2 cm distance from the common probe detects water, LED 2 will light and so on. Switch 1 is used to select which output from the hex buffer will trigger the audible oscillator made from the gates of a CMOS 4011B IC.

Placement of Probes:
As 7 wires are needed for the probe I reccommend the use of 8 way computer ribbon cable. The first two wires may be doubled and act as the common probe wire. Each subsequent wire may be cut to required length, if required a couple of millimetres of insulation may be stripped back, though the open "cut off" wire end should be sufficient to act as the probe. The fluid and distance between probe 6 and the common probe wire must be less than 900k. This is because any voltage below 0.5 Volt is detected by the CMOS IC as logic 0. A quick potential check using a 900k resistance and the divider formed with the 10M resistor at the input proves this point:

5 x (0.9 / (0.9+10) = 0.41 Volt.

As this voltage is below 0.5 volt it is interpreted as a logic 0 and the LED will light. If measuring tap water at 25 ?C then the distance between top probe and common may be up to 45 cm apart. For other temperatures and fluids, it is advisable to use an ohmmeter first. When placing the probes the common probe must be the lowest placed probe, as the water level rises, it will first pass probe 1, then 2 and finally probe 6.

No.11
Circuit :Ron J
Email: ronj@gofree.indigo.ie

Description:
A single zone alarm circuit with entry and exit delay and other facilities.

Notes:
The circuit features automatic exit and entry delays, timed bell cut-off and system reset. It has provision for normally open and normally closed switches and will suit the usual input devices (Pressure Mats, Magnetic Reed contacts, Foil Tape, PIRs and Inertia Sensors). When the power is applied, if there's a fault the buzzer will sound and you should switch off again and check for open doors, windows, etc. If everything is in order the buzzer will NOT sound and the exit delay will begin. You have about 30 seconds to leave the building. When you return the buzzer will sound. You then have about 30 seconds to switch off; otherwise the siren will sound. It will go on sounding indefinitely. However, if the building is re-secured the siren will switch off after about 10 minutes and the alarm will reset.
The Exit delay, Entry delay and Bell Cut-off times can be changed by altering the values of R4, R12 & R13 respectively. Q5 and Q6 ensure that the Entry delay and Bell cut-off timers always start with C7 either fully charged or fully discharged as required. If you can live with slightly less precise time intervals then leave out Q5, Q6, R14, R15, R16, R17, C8 & C9. If you don't want a Bell Cut-off at all then leave out D3 as well.

The sensitivity of the Inertia Sensors is adjusted by R8. Set to minimum value, a light tap will activate the alarm. Set to maximum value, a heavy blow is required. If you are not using Inertia Sensors then replace R8 with a 27k fixed resistor. If you are not using normally open switches then leave out R1, C1 & Q1 and fit a link between R2 and C2.

No.12
Circuit :Ron J
Email: ronj@gofree.indigo.ie

Description:
This circuit features automatic Exit/Entry delays, timed Bell Cut-off and System Reset. It has provision for normally open and normally closed switches and will accommodate the usual input devices such as Foil Tape, Pressure Mats, Magnetic Reed Contacts, Passive Infrared Detectors and Inertia (Shock) Sensors.

The green Led should be lighting before you set the alarm. When you open SW1 The red Led will light and the Exit delay will begin. You have about 30 to 40 seconds to leave the building. As you do so the buzzer will sound. It should stop sounding when you close the door behind you; indicating that the trigger circuit has been successfully restored within the time allowed. On returning, when you open the door the buzzer will sound again. You then have about 30 to 40 seconds to move SW1 to the "off" position. If you fail to do so, the siren will sound. After about 15 to 20 minutes, when the relay drops out, the alarm will attempt a Reset by using Q3 to switch itself "off" briefly. If the trigger circuit has been restored the alarm will reset. If not, the attempt will fail and the alarm will reactivate. It will go on trying to reset itself every 15 to 20 minutes until the trigger circuits are restored; or the alarm is switched off.

The Exit delay, Entry delay and Bell Cut-off times may be changed by altering the values of R12, R8 & R11 respectively. The sensitivity of the Inertia Sensors is adjusted by R4. Set to minimum value, a light tap will activate the alarm. Set to maximum value, a heavy blow is required. If you are not using Inertia Sensors then replace R4 with a 220k fixed resistor. If you are not using normally open switches then leave out R1, C1 & Q1 and fit a link between the green Led and C2.

Construction:
The terminals are a good set of reference points. To fit them you'll need to enlarge the holes to 1.3mm. Now turn the board over and cut the tracks in the 34 places shown. Make sure that the copper is cut all the way through. Sometimes a small strand of copper remains at the side of the cut and this will cause malfunction. If you don't have the proper track-cutting tool, then a 6 to 8mm drill-bit will do. Just use the drill-bit as a hand tool; there is no need for a drilling machine.

Next fit the 9 wire links. I used bare copper wire on the component side of the board. Telephone cable is suitable; the single stranded variety used indoors to wire telephone sockets. Stretching the core slightly will straighten it; and also allow the insulation to slip off.

The next stage is to fit the resistors, most of the diodes, and the IC socket. Using a socket reduces the chances of damaging the IC; and makes it easier to replace if necessary. The resistors are all shown lying flat on the board. However, those connected between close or adjacent tracks are mounted standing upright; as are some of the diodes.

Finally, fit the remaining components (capacitors, transistors, diodes and relay); add the 10 solder bridges to the underside of the board; and finish off by inserting the Cmos 4081 into the socket.

some schematic for simple car alarm? tnx