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Well, my picKit 2 came in the mail today. And it worked!!! Thank you so much for getting me to buy this. Now I can finally finish this project almost a year later.
Thanks for showing me the difference between PICkit 2 and 3. It looks like 2 works better for my purposes. I also see a lot of benefits to it. Mostly the fact that I just got a new laptop and usb powered will make it a lot easier.
I'm sure my computer puts out the right voltage because I...
Oh, I didn't realize that the JDM sucked so bad. If I knew that I probably wouldn't have gotten it. I thought that it didn't really matter what programmer you had.
I'll have to get a pickit. I thought that they cost $200, but I didn't look that hard. If that solves my problem then all is good.
Yes, the chip functions from the last time I programmed it. It just now is completely unrecognized by the programmer.
I haven't tried using a real programmer because I don't have one. They are a little too expensive. Is it possible that the JDM is just not doing the job.
I'm somewhat new to programming PICs but I have a very good background in z80 assembly. I've been working on a pic10f200 to be used as a mod chip in an Xbox controller. Everything was going great, I got the full-auto complete, then I got the burst mode complete, but when I went to link it all...
I have another problem that seems to defy physics, although it might be that I have something very simple backwards.
I am trying to make a mod chip for an Xbox 360 controller. The controller uses ground to signal button presses. So what I have done is to connect wires to ground, power, player 4...
Ironically, after all this survival. Since I had the ground backwards, I wrote my whole modding program with the voltages backwards.
And the chip shorted out in 2 min.
Oh well, I just have to redo the whole thing.
Well the LED flashes. I tried switching the + and - but I forgot to turn the LED around also.
What I really need is for someone to clear up for me + - ground and current flow. When I try to combine all this things just don't work out right.
What I think I understand now is that - is ground...
um... so does that mean that the negative side of the battery is considered ground?
I thought that the power flows from the negative to positive thereby making the positive ground.
The positive negative thing always gets me. I will be away from home until tuesday, but I know that if I switch...
Oh yeah, that is a 390Ω. I forgot that black was 0 not 1 for a second.
And I do have the LED on Vss. Vss is pin 7 which goes to ground and uses the rounded side of the LED.
As far as the photo. Everything you see is what's there, I labeled anything besides wire.
Shouldn't the PIC be limiting...
The 1k capacitor is going to ground because I tried to get the power to 1mA. Which obviously didn't make the chip work as all the power just went through the LED. It is more of a test, but without it 1.4 Amps flow through the chip.
The chip is still programmable, out of the four I've been...
Sorry for double posting but this still isn't working.
So I figured out how the multimeter works.
The chip is running at 1.4 amps. With one diode it does 600 mA.
Edit:
Progress. I added a 3k resistor between vss and ground. The current through the chip was then 1mA. The LED turned on, but...
There do not appear to be any shorts in the chip from checking the pins. Tying the unused pins down did not help. I am still using two AAs.
I am using a breadboard and it is always the same setup. Actually I don't even have a bread board. I am just using a piece of wood with holes in it and...
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