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Nearly there getting it wired up have the switched mode power supply now, and getting a new DPDT switch.
In #14 I made a mistake with the resistance values the numbers are right, but the tester was set to 20k so I'm now confused about the Ohms values, trying to find the rheostat to replace the...
I have not run the motor for any long periods at the moment, as when things get hot I turn everything off. not confident the setup is quit right yet. The components of the projector are not easily replaceable if I break or burn them out.
The choke is black because it is full of oil and dirt...
The 240v 110v connections are just there so that I can switch between them more easily, as I have a 110v transformer on a USA type plug and a standard UK plug for the 240v.
Connection 1,2 are to the commutator and 3,4 are the stator, I have completed a continuity test between the body of the...
Hi,
Thanks for more info. I have now built a little test, rig as wanted to test on 240v its a bit safer. I have tried this on both 240 and 110v with two different rheostats of different resistance. I'm not happy with any of the configuration as either the rheostats appear to run to hot or the...
Picture 5 is not a Rheostat it looks like one but has no moving parts, I think it is a choke, not going to use because of the state of it.
I plan to remove the bulb from the holder, picture 1, install a 240v to 12v transformer with the 12v bulb above it, in the space, in line with the lenses...
The 12v is for the main light and the pilot lights, not the motor. I'm changing the bulbs on the projector as they are no longer made and can cost between £30 to £60 each, if you can get one at all, changing to 12v 50w halogen and 12v 0.6w MES type for the pilots, this will run from the 240v...
I did attach the plate from the projector, its below. The projector was designed to run on 250/200, 160/140 or 120/100 volts and has resistor used to vary the speed of the motor as well. It also has a circuit with to low voltage (12v maybe) bulbs in to give some light when threading the film...
I have a motor on a 1930's projector, the plate on the projector says 100 - 250 v AC and DC, the motor has stamped on it 100/50 and has four wires two for the brushes and two for the stator. I have tested the motor on an old laptop supply which puts out 19v DC and it worked great, albeit a bit...
It might be sufficient but so far all to big and expensive and not all the right type. Can I ask you not to reply to next post as you were not very helpful.
Carl
What I would like to do is take 240v turn it into 24v at 150w in as compact a unit as possible. been trying to find a solution to this, looked at transformers and resisters but to at 150 watts all the solution have been to big. trying to get some thing to fit in a projector bulb compartment or...
Thanks all for your help with this, I decided to go with re-wraping it with nic chrome wire of the right resistance, not tested it yet but it looks good.
Yeah it was Nichrome wire which will have a different resistance, than the steel currently in use. I have a multi meter with OHMS which starts at 200, 2k, 20k, 200k, 2m. Set at 200 each single wind gives me a jump of 0.1-0.2. so the first wind is 0.5 then 0.6 then 0.8 then 1.0 then 1.1 and so...
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