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Why not use an off-the-shelf cellphone battery bank (the kind that works on an 18650)? They're cheap, and would take care of all your charging requirements, and work straight off a 5 volt supply.
HI,
If you mean that the triac comes on, and *stays* on, continuously lighting the load at full intensity, try a pull-down resistor between your opto pin 6 and the triac pin connected to mains neutral in your schematic.
Also, do you really need a transistor to drive the opto input? Your AVR...
If you dont use an opto, you loose isolation between your micro circuit and the mains. Is that acceptable? What kind of power supply do you have driving the microcontroller circuit?
Hello Everyone!
I have absolutely no experience in this, and had no idea where to begin; Google hasnt really made things clear(er).
I am looking for a readymade module (or, if not, designs, or ideas to make one) that would soft start an existing LED lamp. I'm talking about controlling an LED...
Absolutely! I often design my user interfaces to run on an Android device. The actual hardware becomes much simpler (and cheaper) if you dont need LEDs, displays and switches.
What you need is a bluetooth serial module (google for Linvor). These are extremely easy to use, and are reasonably...
For this much information to be displayed in realtime, I'd seriously look at other options.
Like a cheap tablet running a custom apk to format the display, and the arduino streaming the data to it over bluetooth.
Very simple hardware, but you'd need to design the Android app. And perhaps the...
I think the easiest would be to use a mains timer like this **broken link removed**
Its quite versatile, gives a number of program cycles per day, or day of the week.
I have used quite a few of these, and they are quite reliable.
At the output of the timer, just connect your 12 volt power...
Dick, it *is* an initialization problem, and very consistent. The inverted output-with-a pnp to drive the load looked very logical, except the module runs at 3.3 volts, and the relay uses 6 volts. So, even a high on the pin would still drive the relay. So, rather than looking further into that...
No, I'm using no controller besides the ESP8266 itself. Anyway, what you said about the 8051 applies here as well, but using a pnp is not an option, as my relay is a 6 volt device, and the ESP8266 runs at 3.3
Thanks anyway.
AND! I solved the problem, brute force! I fed that signal into a...
The ESP8266 is indeed a wifi module, but with a powerful RISC processor on board. As you point out, you can use it with another controller.
OR, since it already has a powerful controller on board, besides the wifi radios, one can use the controller by itself, by flashing an alternate firmware...
Brian, I think you are on the right track concerning the problem.
But, I'm afraid your solution would not work, as this positive pulse on the whole port happens *before* the code starts running.
I've even observed this phenomenon on a fresh controller without any firmware written, as also on...
Yes, there is a diode across the coil. BUT, this problem occurs even if the io is not connected, so it is not caused by anything external; its an intrinsic issue with the controller that it initially gives a high burst to all the ports.
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