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Parasitic power supply for smart light switch (without neutral line)

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harvie

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Hello, you may be familiar with the situation. You have old light wiring in your house, so there's one live wire and one wire going to lightbulb. And you want to roll your own smart switch connected to wifi or controlled by remote control. So you obviously miss the neutral wire and try hard to overcome this problem.

i've came with this:



Falstad circuit simulator code:

https://github.com/Harvie/Designs/blob/master/electronics/parasitic_switch.circuit

It's surely not the best way to power light switching electronics. What do you think about it? Will it work? Is there any room for improvement? What about fluorescent bulbs, LED bulbs, etc? How do you solve this problem?
 
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It should technically work, I cannot see any fundamental reason why it should not.

Only objection I can see is that there will still be power via the leakage resistor when the switch is off.
A cynic (or a lawyer) might argue that could pose a safety hazard to an unsuspecting person working on the light fitting.
 

I've replaced the "leakage resistor" by "leakage capacitor", which seems to be far more efficient.
 

a small TiNY switch (power integrations) buck ckt would be far more efficient and would not result in two series parts constantly in series with your load...
 

a small TiNY switch (power integrations) buck ckt would be far more efficient and would not result in two series parts constantly in series with your load...

But how should i connect it? I agree that switched design would be more efficient, but i don't know where to place it. it would still need some balast in series with bulb and parallel to switch. But in switched design both of these can be much smaller. But i am not sure how to wire it...
 

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