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How exacly 80m ARDF works?

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Isn't this method also used in TV tuners? I am planning to use one in the FM receiiver, afaik they output the "intermediate freq" which I have to somehow convert to audio...
Almost all tunable receivers use the 'superhet' principle because it has so many advantages for little extra cost. As you have noticed, as you tune the oscillator you select a different input frequency but the antenna filter isn't tuned for best results on that frequency, it is set to give a broader 'band pass' characteristic which is a compromise between keeping unwanted signals out while not losing too much of the ones you want. To get best results all the tuned circuits would have to be set to the same frequency and that causes all kinds of problems with keeping them aligned. The solution used in Superhet designs is to move (VFO & mixer) the incoming signal to a fixed frequency (IF or Intermediate Frequency) so the filter stages do not have to be tuned each time. It isn't that much different to the direct conversion you have at the moment except that instead of converting directly to audio, you convert to a fixed higher frequency instead and later convert that back to audio.

But let's back to the receiver of this topic. So indeed a second tuning knob would be useful...
What would be the best way to add it to schematic discussed here? Just add a second, for instance, 1k pot next to 10k pot?
The limit of tuning range is decided by the varicap diode. It works like a variable capacitor where the voltage across it determines the capacitance. The voltage from the wiper of the pot changes as you rotate it and that in turn makes the capacitance across the diode change. To get a wider tuning range you have to make the difference between capacitance at low voltage and at high voltage as big as possible. You can set the widest tuning range by setting the two pre-set potentiometers to minimum resistance so you get the full 8V variation across the diode. The value of the pot makes no difference except that if you use a lower value it will heat up slightly and that makes the tuning drift worse. You used a BB329 varicap which has a range of about 10pF to 45pF but the original was a BB104 which has a range of about 25pF to 70pF so you will get a little less tuning range anyway.

Also, I am planning to do a 40m/80m band version of this receiver.
I know that I must change antenna filters and VFO for other band.
As for antenna filter, I realize I will have two separate filters, right? And just... switch them somehow?
But what about VFO? I guess it would be simples with DDS...
Yes, two filters are needed, there is no way around that I'm afraid. The easiest way is probably to use a small DPCO signal relay as there are two connections to change. The ground side of the two filters can stay permanently connected but you do need to swap the antenna and MC3361 connections over.
You could use another relay to change the VFO frequency. There are electronic methods of doing the switching but I'm hesitant to suggest you do it as there are all kinds of technical complications and the PCB layout is critical, for certain there is no way it would work without a ground planed double sided PCB.

DDS is a possibility and it has several advantages, in particular you know exactly what frequency you are tuned to. It isn't quite as simple as just 'plugging in' a DDS device though as they do need to be electronically programmed to the frequency you want. DDS systems also tend to produce output frequencies different to the one you want at the same time. The strongest output will be the one you program it to produce but there will be some lower level signals as well which you may have to guard against as they may make the receiver pick up 'ghost' signals from some other frequency.

I also wonder which parts of circuit I can put on separate boards without having too much stray inductances impact...
General rule at RF is to keep the wiring as short as possible, particularly at higher frequencies. You can move the audio stages off to a different board as the frequencies are low enough that wiring length isn't too important. Certainly keep the filters and the VFO as close to the MC3361 as possible, that's why I suggested using relays earlier instead of running wires to mechanical switches.

Brian.
 
Yes, I will certainly use relays.

I've been also wondering if I can somehow make a "main tune" and "fine/precise tune" mechanism with two pots for this receiver by adding a SECOND capacitance diode, but I'm not sure about the wiring... or if it's even possible in a simple way...


Btw, today I managed to receive really understoodable voice with my original Lidia80 board and the crude "cable from roof" antenna. The only issue I still seem to have that I can't get the rid of CW noises in the SSB mode. I've tried using the antenna pot, but it helps only a bit. Also, the receiver speaker seems a bit quiet... but well, maybe it's because I started getting use to my other receiver which is using TDA2030...
 

To add a fine tuning control, duplicate the existing tuning control exactly except for the capacitor in series with the varicap. Instead of using 10nF, try something much smaller, maybe as small as 10pF. That capacitor changes how much effect the varicap has on the tuning so by using a smaller capacitor in series with it, it's overall effect becomes smaller.

The CW in the background is a limitation of that kind of receiver, it has very poor 'selectivity', the measure of how well it picks one signal out from the background. In direct conversion receivers, there are no filters with narrow enough 'passband' to isolate a single signal, in fact all the signals that manage to pass the antenna filter are there at once and it only that some are higher in audio pitch than others that allows you to pick one out.

Brian.
 

To add a fine tuning control, duplicate the existing tuning control exactly except for the capacitor in series with the varicap. Instead of using 10nF, try something much smaller, maybe as small as 10pF.
So you mean something like that:
fineTune.png
(the extra pots ofc course can be omitted)
well, it makes sense, I will try.
I could even try making the second varicap module on other board and just attaching it by very short wires....

That capacitor changes how much effect the varicap has on the tuning so by using a smaller capacitor in series with it, it's overall effect becomes smaller.
So I can also put a larget capacitor to make main tune range larger?
 

So you mean something like that:
Thats exactly right.

I could even try making the second varicap module on other board and just attaching it by very short wires....
The wires to the varicap, its series capacitor and the 100K resistor all carry signal so they should be as short as possible, The wires to the potentiometer can be as long as you like, they only carry DC.

So I can also put a larget capacitor to make main tune range larger?
Its the variation of varicap capacitance that shifts the tuning. The capacitance across the varicap depends on the voltage you apply across it. The actual frequency can be calculated with "1/(2*pi*sqrt(L*C))" where L is the inductance of the coil and C is the combined capacitance of the two 100pF capacitors and the varicap. The varicap capacitance is relatively small compared to 10nF so the 10nF can almost be ignored, leaving the varicap to do all the work. When the series capacitor is reduced, the effective maximum capacitance becomes smaller and the tuning range narrower.

Brian.
 
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    Garyl

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Hey, I am considering adding an antenna amplifier to the circuit mentioned earlier.
Can you check is my transtistor connection correct?
ant_amp_for_lidia.png
I plan to use BC547.

Also, would adding AGC here improve the reception?
 

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