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@ljcox: Regarding the tone oscillator in the latest drawing, you wrote "Set tone 1 with Rb c3, Tone 2 with (Ra+Rb)C3" Just for clarification, the two tones I want are G# and E (for High and Low, respectively). Using the resistor values I posted for the notes in Post #24, that would be G#: 15 K...
Thank you very much! I'll get started on assembling that tomorrow after I pick up a couple resistors and capacitors for it. I'll let you know how I make out with it.
You bring up a good point about a person lingering in the doorway. As the dining area of this sandwich shop is limited and it's not uncommon for them to have a line up at lunch time, it's possible that the line extends out the door and a person could continuously trigger the circuit.
@ljcox...
Much of what you said doesn't make sense to me. I'm afraid I'm not very knowledgeable to know what FPGA is, other than to Google it and Field-Programmable Gate Array sounds much more complicated than what I'm looking for. In any case, my original need of a 'short beep circuit' has changed during...
I have no PNP transistors, but I can easily pick some up as well.
If I was starting this from the beginning, I would probably use a PIC as well, from what I've briefly read about them. I'm not sure where I would even start with something like that.
My apologies, I prefer the first option, with the volume fading after the 1 second tone. It can be a fairly quick fade, too. Just something to smooth out the end of it.
My wall wart outputs 12v, so I can use that for the amplifier.
Which would be preferable, the TDA 1905 or LM380? And...
I'll check with my supplier tomorrow for the ZL-3600, or other audio amp IC. It's too bad they don't have their inventory online so I could plan out what I want to buy.
You're correct, I'd want the second tone to decay in volume, so it has a natural fade sound to it like a bell. It's not a big...
I have very good news to report! The circuit works fabulously!
Now for the final touches:
If I understand it right, if I want to shorten the length of the first tone, after the sensor goes low, I can use a smaller resistor for R1. And to shorten the length of the second tone, that would be...
So .. basically, the pot to + Input. The Sensor, through the noise filter and the 10K for the hysteresis to the - Input. In effect, just swapping the inputs to get the inverted logic?
I did that and the circuit works invertedly (is that a word? haha). The high note is on constant, I put my hand...
I found the manual for my meter online. It has >10 Mohm Input impedance, and the fuses check out good.
I also figured out how to switch from AC A to DC A .. it was a button that the label was worn off (my meter was given to me used), and I had to switch the red probe to another socket.
1. I...
In case I wasn't clear earlier, putting the probe on A doesn't keep A low. If I have the probe on A (even without the other probe grounded), it makes the circuit work properly. Without it, I put my hand over the sensor and I get the high note (IC2d). Remove my hand and it goes silent. I'm not...
The Arduino Uno is an open source, open hardware microcontroller. It has analog input/outputs, digital input/outputs, etc. You write the program using a simplified C++ language and upload it to the board, then it runs the software. The simplest program would make an LED blink. For many projects...
I finally have some good news to report. Or at least some advancing in a forwardly direction :)
I don't have a copy of the circuit in the sensor, just the block diagram from the datasheet (see link below).
I thought that the feedback must have been coming from the sensor. My loving wife bought...
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